Amritsar - Home of the Sikhs and the Golden Temple

Upon coming to the Hotel, Golden Tulip, we forgot all about our previous night’s ordeal after a nice warm shower, a hearty breakfast, and a good sleep on that Friday morning.  Refreshed and rejuvenated, we felt daring enough to go out and back into the hustle and bustle of the streets of another city.  Compared to the other cities we had been to so far, Amritsar seemed less crowded and more subdued. 

As visiting the Golden temple, the main reason we came here, and other sites nearby it would require one day, we decided we would do that on the following day- Saturday. So that meant we could dedicate the rest of the afternoon for something light like going to the Wagha Border and watch the daily evening flag lowering ceremony.   It is a practice the security forces of India and Pakistan jointly followed since 1959.  At the gate on the Grand Trunk Road that connects India and Pakistan, on their respective sides hundreds of spectators gather to watch this beautiful meticulously choreographed military ceremony.  We took a taxi out to the border crossing, about an hour before the ceremony.  People had to get off from their vehicles quite far from the entrance to the viewing gallery due to security concerns.  And this means trouble if you’re not street smart, I mean Indian street smart, you could be in trouble.  There are all kinds peddlers out there trying to sell you things, and they are good at it.  Like mosquitoes they come from all directions. We fell victim and bought a CD from one guy on the border crossing ceremony, which we were about to see. However we got it for half the price he asked for – a small victory of sorts.  As we crossed this barrier, we had to form two lines, one for men and the other for women.  This was mainly to protect women from the unruly crowd.  As women were smaller in number, Susan was able to get in first through the security check.  Once we both passed through the check, for a while I couldn’t locate Susan, and I was somewhat anxious.  It was huge crowd and it is very easy to miss each other.  Fortunately, I was wearing a bright red sweater and Susan could spot me from anywhere.  Though she located me, we couldn’t sit together as men and women were seated separately. The Indian side definitely had more people, not a surprise given its larger population. Prior to the ceremony, the soldiers called women of all ages to come down from the gallery and dance, which they were very happy to oblige, to the latest Bollywood songs right on the spot where the military will do their ceremonial exercises later.  After much patriotic slogans and ear splitting shouts by the crowd, people settle down for the military exercise to begin.  What is interesting is that these enemies coordinate and choreograph their movements in mirror image on both sides.  Following the parade of soldiers, I must add on Indian side there are female soldiers also, flags were lowered, folded, and retreated coordinately, the gates were opened, and the soldiers from either side shook hands and once again gates are closed.  It is a beautiful thing to watch.  I wish we could have gotten little closer to the action, nevertheless we enjoyed.  Getting out of that place was hard as was getting in. Overall, it was good experience.  I was surprised to see the number of trucks with goods waiting to go to the other side.  I believe there is much trade between India and Pakistan; given the enmity between these archrivals this is a good sign.

We had a taxi for the whole day on Saturday as were planning to go to a number of different places.  Heera, our driver, who spoke a little more English than the previous day’s driver, was a huge help throughout the day.  First he took us to the Golden Temple. Like at the Wagha Border Gate, we had to park the car quite far from the temple.  However, the temple provided golf carts for people to go from the parking place to the temple.  Once we got to the temple, we realized that we made a huge mistake in not coming on the previous day. On Saturday, the crowd doubles between visitors and pilgrims.  Both men and women had to cover their heads.  We also had to take off our shoes and walk on bare feet on cold marble floor.  Once you’re inside, it is spotlessly clean and you wouldn’t mind walking barefoot except that it was cold. It is quite an impressive structure. The temple in the middle of large square pool, you get to it by a bridge one of the four sides.  From all sides there are marble steps to the pool.  We saw people bringing small white plastic bottles to carry water from this to take home.  On one side, there are separate areas for men and women devotees to go into the water and take a dip.  The temple, pool, and wide areas for people to walk are enclosed by identical white structures like a perfect square.  We took a leisurely walk around the pool and took pictures of the temple rather than attempting to wait in line to enter the temple.  This temple, Sikhism’s most revered center, was originally built in the late 1500s, destroyed by an Afghan invader in the latter of 1700s, rebuilt by Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the ruler of Punjab.

Guru Nanak, who opposed idol worship, rituals and caste system of the prevailing religion, Hinduism, formed Sikhism.  It is syncretic religion; one can observe elements of Hinduism and Islam in it. The architecture of the temple also reflects these influences. By the way, the Golden Temple is Gold.  Maharajah Ranjit Singh gave 100 Kilogram gold to cover the entire temple with gold veneer.     

Close to the temple is the next site we saw. The Jallianwallah Bagh is a national monument of great importance.  During the freedom struggle, a crowd of unarmed demonstrators who gathered inside this enclosed garden was gunned down on the orders of a British General. Today, it stands as a memorial to the ones who lost their lives.

Next one was another temple, a Hindu one dedicated to Durga.  Built like a replica of Golden temple with water surrounding and a causeway to enter into it.  There was not much traffic at this temple, quite understandable for Punjab, which is dominated by Sikhs. 

We also saw a museum, not very popular it seems, as it was practically empty, dedicated to Maharajah Ranjit Singh, who defeated the Afghans and kept the British at bay. 

By evening we were completely tired of all the visits.  We had already checked out of the hotel but kept the luggage there for us to collect it later in the evening right before we journey towards Rishikesh.  After dinner, we climbed on our train without any incident.  It was pleasant journey.  I will tell you more about it on the next blog from Rishikesh.  Thank you all for reading and I like your comments.